Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Thomas Keller new Cookbook "Under Pressure"


From amazon.com:

A revolution in cooking

Sous vide is the culinary innovation that has everyone in the food world talking. In this revolutionary new cookbook, Thomas Keller, America's most respected chef, explains why this foolproof technique, which involves cooking at precise temperatures below simmering, yields results that other culinary methods cannot. For the first time, one can achieve short ribs that are meltingly tender even when cooked medium rare. Fish, which has a small window of doneness, is easier to finesse, and shellfish stays succulent no matter how long it's been on the stove. Fruit and vegetables benefit, too, retaining color and flavor while undergoing remarkable transformations in texture.

The secret to sous vide is in discovering the precise amount of heat required to achieve the most sublime results. Through years of trial and error, Keller and his chefs de cuisine have blazed the trail to perfection—and they show the way in this collection of never-before-published recipes from his landmark restaurants—The French Laundry in Napa Valley and per se in New York. With an introduction by the eminent food-science writer Harold McGee, and artful photography by Deborah Jones, who photographed Keller's best-selling The French Laundry Cookbook, this book will be a must for every culinary professional and anyone who wants to up the ante and experience food at the highest level.

From the Inside Flap
Under Pressure, writes Harold McGee in his introduction to this, the first book written in English on cooking sous vide, “introduces cooks to one of the most important culinary innovations of modern times.”

An uncommonly grand claim coming from so precise a scientist and writer, but such is the power of this controversial method. “Thomas Keller and his chefs,” McGee continues, “illustrate the powers of precision heating with dozens of dishes that wouldn’t be as fine, or even conceivable, without it.”

Sous vide method comprises a group of techniques that allows the cook to realize flavors and textures that no other cooking method can. By sealing food in plastic and submerging it at exact temperatures for minutes or for days—food that is traditionally braised, sautéed, roasted, or poached—we can attain astonishing results. The tough cuts of meat we once braised in simmering stock can now be cooked sous vide to a medium-rare pink, juicy and meltingly tender. Lamb loin, veal tenderloin, and other larger cuts of meat, difficult to cook evenly, emerge uniform throughout. Delicate fish is enhanced and the margin of error reduced. Vegetables and fruits, cooked in an oxygen-free environment, remain vividly colored. And, because the food is sealed in plastic, its flavor is never lost to the cooking water or the atmosphere. Carrots taste more like carrots, apples more like apples. Small amounts of herbs and other aromatics can have dramatic effects. Cold techniques are valuable as well. Marinades used with meats en sous vide are powerfully effective. Various fruits and vegetables, such as melons, cucumbers, and pineapple, become new when compressed.

Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide is an invaluable contribution to our culinary world at a time of unprecedented interest in food and cooking, both in the restaurant kitchen and at home. The most critical aspect of sous vide lies in discovering what combination of time and temperature achieves the most sublime results. The answers, as discovered and practiced during the past decade by the chefs of The French Laundry and per se, two of the most respected restaurants in the world, are all here, within the innovative recipes from Keller’s landmark restaurants.

Under Pressure is a source of instruction, technique, and recipes for anyone who wants to experience the new ideas sous vide makes possible, inspiration for what is possible and what might be.

Pierre Gagnaire in Korea

Article from the Korea Times

Pierre Gagnaire, who holds three Michelin stars for his flagship establishment in Paris, has opened his new restaurant, PIERRE GAGNAIRE a Seoul, at Lotte Hotel Seoul.

The French chef does not easily lend his name as he has a strong commitment to maintain a high level of quality at all the restaurants under his name. He owns restaurants across the globe, but only four bear his name, these are in Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai and now Seoul.

Although Gagnaire follows genuine French cuisine regarding food ingredients and basic cooking methods, his cooking style is known to be modern, innovative, and diverse.

To open the restaurant here, he long prepared dishes featuring Korean ingredients such as abalone, sesame and rice.

With the opening of the restaurant, Lotte Hotel Seoul's long dream seems to have come true.

The hotel had long sought to open one of Gagnaire's restaurants and it took more than two years to realize the project. The preparation involved eight months of large-scale renovation, investment of about 7 billion won in Pierre Gagnaire's brand import, design, recruiting staff from Paris and menu consulting.

For his part, Gagnaire promised to have his flagship French cuisine available at the hotel. He has also personally selected 270 different wines to match his dishes, of which some 130 wines have never been introduced in Korea before.

Gagnaire has even made up a comprehensive service manual regarding reception, service technique, food and wine pairing; and a multi-concept bar in his name opening for the first time in the world.

The launch seems to be pretty successful or at least it proved the high expectation on him and the restaurant, given that it has already received more than 300 reservations before the opening on Oct. 1.

At PIERRE GAGNAIRE a Seoul, he offers an a la carte menu of three to four dishes, course menu of more than 15 plates, and dessert menu.

Prices of a la carte menus range from 100,000 won to 150,000 won. Lunch course menus are priced at 120,000 won and 200,000 won with dinner course menus at 220,000 won and 300,000 won.

The restaurant opens from noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to midnight on weekdays and from 6 p.m. to midnight on Saturdays.